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Monthly Archives: June 2014

(nearly) Finished 1780 Stays!

14 Saturday Jun 2014

Posted by guhnome in 18th Century, Corsets, Costuming, HIstorical Sew Fortnightly, History, To Do Lists, Uncategorized, Undergarments

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Rouge-y

Well people, I’ve done it. I finished these puppies in just over 2 weeks (nevermind the extra week to blog about it)and way early for the Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #12 (Due July 1st!) Handsewing everything is definitely way more time consuming, but they’re done! They fit perfectly and feel very secure. I’ve not lined them, as it’s not necessary and since I’m on short time.

Here are the specs in Historical Sew Fortnightly fashion:

The Challenge: (early entry) #12 Shape and Support

Fabric: Red Worsted Wool, Linen Canvas, Linen, Leather

Pattern: Altered from Jill Salen, Corsets, 1780 Brown Linen Stays (p.15)

Year: 1780

Notions: Linen Thread, Leather binding, Cane/reed boning, steel boning (for laces)

How historically accurate is it? Everything is accurate, except for the steels I put in the CB. Garment is entirely hand stitched. Because of tight lacing I didn’t want the cane to break, steel is safer.

Hours to complete: around 65 hours

First worn: Will be worn for the Italian Gown Workshop in late June.

Total cost: $55, all items purchased specifically for project   

Overall, I’m happy with the result, there are just tweaky things I’ll have to change for the next pair. There was some widging around which has turned the stays slightly askew when I put them on. Also, white stitching isn’t forgiving. BUT They do their job and pull my waist to a comfortable measurement (24.5ish)

 

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When I’ve not eaten so much for dinner, these should close up all the way….

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Stays progress!

01 Sunday Jun 2014

Posted by guhnome in Uncategorized

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Because I’m working on such a tight schedule I can’t really hem-haw (no pun intended, but I chuckled after I re-read it) around not working on projects.

My stays are patterned off of Jill Salen’s book, Corsets, and are the “Brown Jean Stays from 1780″ from page 15, however mine are made from red wool, linen and linen canvas. It’s kind of an ugly pair of stays, if completely replicated from the book. The boning is bulky looking, and it’s a terrible color. I chose this one because it’ll easily translate into a 1770s corset if need be and because I’ve not seen anyone make it yet! I did alter it a teeny bit though… The pattern is pretty straight forward but because I’m not that busty, my pattern isn’t as voluptuous as the original. The original measurements are for 34″ bust and a 30″ waist whereas mine need to be 33″ bust and 24″ waist (just so you guys know, my waist is nowhere near that on a normal day. I eat too much Taco Johns to be that small… it’s normally around 28″) I also had to elongate the CF because 10” is just too short. I have a slightly longer torso for a short person, so 13.5 was what I took it to.

All my channels are finished and I’m the “whip together” stage for the seams. I’ll have it done by tonight and plan to bone it with the 3/16” cane I purchased from Wm. Booth, Draper. And it’ll be on hold (so I can put together my hat) until I get my leather stay binding from Burnley and Trowbridge!

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Gotta dash if I wanna get this done! Thanks for reading!

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