2018 “In Review”

Geesh! This year has proven to me that I’m not in control of time (or anything for that matter) in any way. I can’t believe the year is almost over… there were so many things that I had intended/scheduled to make but absolutely did not. I don’t know about anyone else, but this year kicked my butt. In terms of “upping my game”- in terms of quality events- in terms of meeting new people- in terms of turning my life upside down. It was a lot to cram in there.

Surprisingly, I’m alive. *CHECK*

This year, I had made a “resolution” to follow the “Must Do List” and to keep up with the Historical Sew Monthly. That went well for about 4 months. Then I tanked HARD. Moving really disrupted everything. I mean, my husband’s job was terminated at the beginning of January, so it’s been an entire year of upheaval- now that I look back on it. We’re finally getting into a “groove” in our new little town and I’m so excited to have some stability. I have an awesome friend who watches Anne once a week so I can get a solid day’s work in and the commission waitlist is getting smaller for Virgil’s Fine Goods. I know that once I get to where I feel I have a handle on things it’ll all go topsy-turvy but for now I’ll enjoy the little bit of routine we’ve got goin’ on.

Anyway, back to this year…. How did I do? On a scale of 1-10 (10 being best) I would say I fall around 4 or 5. I kept up with work stuff but personal projects didn’t go as planned in any way… If I were being graded at school, I would qualify it all as a D, but I’m getting close to 30 so I don’t even know why I would think in terms of that….

I still haven’t made my birthday apron yet- adlkfjahkdljahfdh- but I guess that’s the trade-off when I want to garden, do canning and craftting while having a kid under 2. It’s going to happen next year though. IT MUST.

The Must-Do List (2017) Progress

Finish Yellow 19th Century Ball Gown– Now I need to blog about it
Add more trim to Green Check 19th Century Gown
Finish Regency Stays- Busk Pocket, add real straps
Add Buttons to Black Regency Gown
Fasten Straps to Regency Petticoat
Re-Make Wool 18th Century Petticoat
Trim White 18th Century Petticoat–
Trim Pierrot Jacket– Now I need to blog about it
Hem Ian’s 19th Century Shirt

Wellllllll that’s not great. BUT I did make some fun things this year:

Finished Personal Projects:

(a lot of these will get their own blog post soon, I just have such a hard time getting nice photos to use!)

The 1908 Purple Dress
1908 Corset
1810 Yellow Silk Evening Gown
1760s-1770s Small Hoop
1760s-1770s Chine Saque Gown
Anne’s 18th century kit (cloak, mitts, gown, cap)
Anne’s 19th century dresses (3 dresses and corded cap)
1800-1805 White Ikat Crossover Gown
1787 Silk Cap
1810 Trimmed Straw Bonnet
1919 Christmas Dress for Anne
Late-1770s Linen Dress for Felicity

Unfinished Personal Projects (These will be added to next year’s “Must-Do” List)

1805 French Blue Bonnet- I just need to hem the ties!
1800 Green Corded Bonnet Repro- Add brim and trim
Felicity’s Rose Garden Dress Redo

All in all it was an alright year for historical clothing but next year is gonna be wayyyyyy better!

 

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The Must-Do List of 2017

My 2017 “Resolution” was to refrain from starting any new projects until I finished my UFO’s- aka THE MUST DO LIST. I did well on my quest, though I didn’t post much about it on here. I put a lot on instagram, but with a baby and tending my etsy shop I found it hard to find time to write! So here’s one big post with a run-down of my [semi] successful venture.

My must-do list had a lot of projects that were *almost* finished or ones that NEEDED to be made, based on what event was coming up. These are its successes:

Fix Blue Linen 18th Century Petti: This lovely p’cote was made and given to me by the Fat-Reenactress a few years ago before I had a full 18th century kit. I had worn it to death and the waistband started to ravel so it needed some re-vamping. SUCCESS!

Mend 18th Century Chintz Bedgown: Another item that received a LOT Of love over the years. I am notorious for ripping out the right bottom armscye of almost everything I have. As a result, this bedgown had been washed numerous times with the hole in it. I added a cute little patch to it which doubles as a gusset and I now have more room to move! Unfortunately, my post-baby body is a little too big for it anymore, so a new bedgown is on the list for 2018. Overall, SUCCESS!!

TurkeyRed Early 19th Century Shortgown: A while back I made an adorable lower-class ensemble of turkey-red fabric for my 19thcentury/regency adventures. The fit was great, it was ridiculously sweet, and very adjustable!…. but I made it with lined, long sleeves. -Not great for wearing year-round-  I had a little bit of fabric left over from the project, so I pieced together a matching 3/4 length sleeve version. I ended up wearing this while pregnant at the Kalamazoo History Show and on Friday at the Jane Austen Festival (shortly after I had the baby). It’s very comfortable and cute, to boot! SUCCESS!!!

Patrick’s 19th Century Shirt: Sooooooo, a lonnnnnng lonnnnnng time ago I had told Patrick that I would make him a shirt since I was starting to prototype men’s shirts for the Virgil’s store. That project got pushed back again. And again. And again. I can’t tell you how many times that project was literally on my worktable and then I’d get an order, thinking “I’ll do that RIGHT after this order.” Hhahahahahahahahahahaha. Can you guess what happened? Anyways, I just said “screw all that” one week and finished that puppy. FINALLY SUCCESS!!!!

Binding Ian’s 19th Century Top Hat: I’m a novice at pulling hats, but when I initially pulled Ian’s top hat last year, I was really proud of myself. I didn’t have time to bind it when it needed to be worn. I finally finished it! YAY! Not the prettiest, but I’m not at all practiced. I plan to take a class on it so I can get better and maybe even carry them in my shop! Overall, SUCCESS!!!!

Fashion plate from SceneInThePast on Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/4841506241/in/set-72157624611694164/

 

 

Anne’s 18th Century Stays: I did up this project while the in-laws were in town on New Years day. Easy peasy, kept me busy, and they ended up fitting when Anne was 4 months old! Full Post Here. SUCCESS!!!!!!

18th Century Gestational Stays: I was fortunate enough to go to the Textile Conference in Colonial Williamsburg last year and had to make SOMETHING that would enable me to wear my 18th century stuff. Luckily, this were a quick whip (the binding was a different story) and turned out pretty well. Full post here. I’ll be sure to post about fit sometime soon- I promise! SUCCESS!!!!!!!

 

Alter Ian’s 19th Century Breeches: Had to move the buttons from one side to the other. and lengthen the strap. SUCCESS!!!!!!!

Finish the Paintings: Blog Posts about these paintings are here. But, this was a collaborative project started well over 2 years ago and I kept procrastinating. Well, they’re done now. SO. DONE. We framed them for Christmas and so happy about it! WE plan to offer prints of these to sell- stay tuned for the official announcement! SUCCESS!!!!!!!

Basic Silk Kerchief: Found an amazingly light vintage silk in exactly a 36×36″ square. I had hemmed one side, and then tucked it away somewhere. Fast forward to 5 months later when I used it as a travel project! YAY! It’s fantastic for keeping you warm without added bulk. Hooray! SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!

 

FAILS:

These are the fails of my list- the items I never got around to, to my shame!

Finish Yellow 19th Century Ball Gown: Didn’t do.
Add more trim to Green Check 19th Century Gown: Nope!
Finish Regency Stays: Hahaha
Add Buttons to Black Regency Gown: Nada.
Fasten Straps to Regency Petticoat: Still safety pinned.
Re-Make Wool 18th Century Petticoat: Hasn’t even been unfolded!

 

Other Items, not on the list, were made as well. Here’s a few of them!

 

Hope you all had a Happy New Year and can’t wait to see what next year holds!

 

1810’s Baby Dress

Little Anne with her rattle.

Life with a baby has been great! Anne is an amazing sleeper, so I can’t complain about not getting a night’s sleep because of her. However, sometimes, I just can’t sleep! This little number was the result of one of those nights.

1990.296.2, 1805-1815 Infant’s Dress from the Met

My version of it!

I made this dress from a small piece of fabric in my stash and about 4 hours of time. It is based on an infant’s dress at The Met that I had fallen in love with. The only major difference is the original has an a-line skirt, rather than the straight sides I used. I made it as a basic square with sleeves with the sleeves having a tiny vandyke fine hem… that part took the longest of the entire thing!

The major hallmark of baby clothes from the 1790s-1810’s is a drawstring waist, which is easy and fast to produce. This one also has a gathered neckline. That part stumped me for a bit, but I made an executive decision to attempt to get as much wear out of this garment as possible. Children grow a lot, and I’d like for her to wear it next year, too!

Since the drawstring neckline in the extant doesn’t extend through the shoulder seams to the back, I had to figure out a way to make it not only look the same as the original, but also function as a way to get more longevity. I left one side of the front drawstring casing open and tacked the cotton tape to the selvage of the sleeve while the other side is closed and fixed in place. I’ll be able to get another 1 1/2 inches out of the front neckline which coincides with typical 12-18 month baby measurements. (see photos below)

So sweet and tiny!

Back view with cotton tape ties

Open channel inside neckline

Tiny, tiny, tiny running stitch

The vandyking of the sleeves has got to be the best part about this garment. They’re very tiny- only 1/2 inch from cut to cut. Since the inside of the vandying was raw at the top, I ended up tucking the edge up about 1/16inch to conceal the raw edges and hopefully make it launder without it fraying. (Edit: Since originally writing out this post I had hand laundered the dress with rigorous effort and am happy to mention that the tuck seems to have done the trick!)

Backside of vandyked sleeve hem.

Here’s the tuck I was talking about!

Ultimately, I’m extremely happy with how this turned out. Anne got to wear it for the first time to a fashion show, and again at the Fair at New Boston. She seemed to have a good time at both. She looked cute if nothing else!

Fair at New Boston with Momma!

Photoshoot fail.

She was happy on the couch.

If there’s interest, I’ll be doing a pattern or kit in the Virgil’s store for those who would like to make their own. Let me know if that’s something you’re interesting in!

Anne loves Patrick- he made her a rattle!

Tuckered out at the Fair.

Thanks for reading and I hope this post helps those of you clothing your little ones in the early 19th century!

Regency Sheer Straw Bonnets

So, I wanted to focus on something in our shop that’s not being widely made right now and we, at the Virgil’s Hats & Fine Goods, are proud to say we debuted these lovelies at the Jane Austen Festival at Locust Grove this year!

Here we are modeling the (L-R) Trimmed, Chocolate colored, and wheat colored bonnets.

When choosing a hat for warmer weather, it’s hard to decide between something “pretty” versus “functional” with the choices that most living historians have.  With what’s generally available at most sutlers- Warm weather presents us with the only options of  a “chip straw” hat/bonnet or a silk covered hat/bonnet. Silk doesn’t breath, and chip straw is more fit for a lower-class impression- which isn’t always what we’re going for.

ENTER THE SHEER STRAW/HORSEHAIR BONNET:

You’ve seen a few movies with these types of bonnets present in them and you might have thought “That’s too pretty to be historically accurate” or “surely they wouldn’t have had something that decorative” but you would be wrong! There are numerous textual examples of woven horsehair or straw bonnets being used and taxed in the early United States from the 1780’s-on.

Excerpt from “A Collection of all the Statutes Now in Force, Relating to the Revenues and Officers of Great Britain and the Plantations” Vol 2, Pg 4, 1780.

AND there are quite a few extant pieces in various museums along with a few references to them made in fashion plates. (see images below)  This is a style that has many terms and can often be confusing-  “capote” “leghorn” “coal scuttle” “poke bonnet” are all terms I’ve seen associated with this shape:  generally narrow all the way through and slightly elongated to the back. This was a very popular shape in headwear (caps, hats, bonnets) as well as hairstyles from 1797-1808. These styles are said to have emerged because of the early 19th century “discovery” of new ancient Greek and Roman artifacts- and fashion emulates whatever is exciting!

Our Bonnets in comparison to the Litchfield bonnet

Detail of Woven Horsehair and Straw Bonnet, Ca 1805-1820, Litchfield Historical Society

Comparison of our sheer bonnets to the extant piece,
Woven Horsehair and Straw Bonnet, Ca 1805-1820, Litchfield Historical Society

“…balloon bonnet of wicker…” July 1796, Heidelhoff, The Gallery of Fashion. Image from Bunka Fashion College

A sheer bonnet offers a delicate and light option for those who want a more refined look while still having some sun protection with your headwear.What’s also great about a sheer bonnet is you can line it with interesting colors- or leave it unlined- depending on your taste!

Joanna, my business partner, is a wizard at millinery and made these beautiful pieces now for sale in our shop suitable for 1790s thru 1820s! We modeled them at JAF2016 and are now available for purchase. These are made with antique/vintage straws that are extremely hard to find. We hope you like them as much as we do!

(We will have more bonnet shapes, like the tall poke bonnets and maybe even 1860s spoon bonnets made out of these gorgeous straw & horsehairs available in our shop in the near future!… keep checking the shop for new listings)

The Hairdressers at the Sign of the Mortar and Pestle take on JAF 2016

Happy Fall (well almost winter now), everyone! We’ve managed to have beautiful weather for the last few weeks and I’m finally in a groove where I can start posting more regularly. Hooray!

R-L: Ms. Williams getting her hair curled by me and Ms. Stephanie having her hair curled by Joanna!

Of my many adventures this past summer, I especially wanted to highlight our time at the Jane Austen Festival this past July. We were stationed with LBCC Cosmetics and set up a historical hair styling experience for those who would like to pamper themselves for the day and/or get ready for the ball and learn about historical hairstyling.

Here’s a sweet little view of our wee workshop complete with our turbans there in the back!

The LBCC tent was wonderfully situated so we could have our guests actually listen to the presentations given at the big tent while getting their hair done. We were also near Dames A La Mode, La Bohemian Belle, and 96 District Fabrics, which is a great place to be!

What was so wonderful about this project is that we were able to use historical hair products from LBCC Historical (namely the pomatums, oils, & powders) as well as historical tools to achieve a perfect look- and our guests didn’t have to worry about a thing; they just enjoyed not doing their own hair.

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Later on, I’ll do a post more in depth about achieving an historically accurate Regency hairstyle, including the tools we use to get the perfect look!

Joanna and I luckily had just enough time to get ready for the ball…and were about 45 min late. We still had a lovely time and so enjoyed seeing all of our guests enjoying themselves and looking utterly perfect! We managed to get a group photo with some of them- namely from the Regency Society of Virginia!

It’s a little dark, but the ladies looked so beautiful!

We were so glad to get a pic together!

Joanna and her lovely tissue silk & lace gown.

My hair was done up with hair pieces encrusted in pearls.

My gown was a silk/cotton blend sheer check fabric. More info on that later.

Dancing!

 

We had so much fun and plan on doing it again next year! I’ll keep you posted on when appointments open up!

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