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Regarding 1780s Stays

11 Monday Nov 2019

Posted by guhnome in 18th Century, Art, Augusta Stays, Books You Should Buy, Corsets, Costuming, Fashion, History, Undergarments, Virgil's Hat's & Fine Goods

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Tags

1780s, 18th Century, Augusta Stays Pattern, Costuming, How to Date, Stays

We’ve had a lot of questions about the 1780s Augusta Stays, and what makes the 1780s different from the surrounding decades.  Here’s a quick post to address a few of them!

Hallmarks of 1780s Stays

A Softer Silhouette: The late 1770s through 1780s really is the beginning of experimental foundation garments that nod toward the loosening silhouettes the early “Regency” or “Federal” era. From what we can gather via images from the time and extant examples is that from around 1775-1789 the straight and primarily fully boned silhouette of the earlier stays styles become more buxom and relaxed. Many examples of “half” or “partially” boned stays from this time period allow the body’s natural shape and contours to influence the stays into a more rounded and slightly more natural silhouette. Whalebone is still the primary source for the boning and the stays are made in a variety of different materials: linens, wools, cottons, blends, and even paper is utilized in some cases.*

1786 Cabinet Des Modes

Here is a great depiction of the “prow front” curvature of the idealized silhouettes from this period. Having the right type of stays make this possible- OR using extra padding to make up for it in your earlier stays;)         Detail from Cabinet des Modes ou les Modes Nouvelles, 15 mai 1786, Pl. I, A.B. Duhamel, after Pugin, 1786, RijksMuseum

 

Partial Center Front Lacing: This rounded bosom and “natural” curvature is due in part to the use of partial lacing at the center front of the garment. In some extant examples, the lacing at the front doesn’t allow for much adjustment in size, while in others it provides an option to have more of the “prow” shape at the front… or if you want to give your decolletage a little more “oomph” it can help with that.

V&A

There’s a wee bit of wiggle room in there for giving that softer front. Stays, Great Britain, 1780-1789, Linen, Victoria and Albert Museum, T.172-1914

 

Fewer Boning Channels: The popularity of the partial boning pattern (often referred to as “Half Boned”) also makes the “natural” silhouette easier to accomplish. Whalebone, being the same protein of hair, horn and fingernails, bends and moulds when in contact with heat- so… Fewer boning channels + Somewhat Bendy Pliable Whalebone = A more “Natural” figure. Some examples even have cording- which gives a little bit of support but not nearly as much as a channel of boning might. Because less face it: Having less of an armored vest and more of a light bustier help emphasize that soft and gentle curve of the body so sought after.

M969X.26-P2

I love this piece- cording, boning, delicate lines. So gorgeous.      Stays, France, 1785-1790, Musee McCord, M969X26

Extreme Angles in Pattern Pieces: If you’re looking carefully, you’ll notice that the front piece of most extant stays from this decade have an extreme angle to attach to the side seams. Having the extreme angle allows for the boning pattern to fan out and makes the bust even more thrusted forward- which can be emphasized as-is or with the aid of padding.

NF.1914-0210

This piece is so awesome to show that crazy angle of the front pieces. Without that angle,                             it’s very hard to achieve the silhouette without additional padding at the front.                         Stays, Last quarter of 18th century, Norske Folkemuseum, NF.1914-0210

 

There’s also an interesting flair in many examples of the side back pieces. One example from PoF5 has a gore, but many of them feature a more extreme flair to the bottom as one piece. What’s great about this feature is that the kidneys and lower back are not crushed by a harsh waistline if you happen to lace too tightly. I’ve found this small detail to make a HUGE difference in how comfortable the 1780s stays shapes are.

V&A red

The blue lines show what piece and curvature I’m talking about. Rather than that piece having straight lines, the flair enables comfortable wear and an emphasized back curvature as well                                               (helpful for the badonkadonk)                                  Stays, 1780s (made) Red Wool, England, Victoria and Albert Museum, T.192.1929

Straps: Most of the examples from this brief time period have straps of some kind, be it a constructed strap or an adjustable tape. Having the straps on a pair of these stays help bring the sides of the bust up and out, pushing the bust tissue forward, and almost acting the same as a demi-cup or push-up bra. Images and extant stays from the 1750s- early 1770s tend to emphasize a wide and flat front bustline, acting more as a means to lift and separate the bust upward rather than push it outward. The straps are also pretty important for keeping the waistline slightly higher- since the straps are holding up the garment, rather than gravity forcing the stays down to settle at the squishiest part of the body… the waist.

Z

This is a fun example of straps that aren’t necessarily the traditionally constructed straps that                       many of the other images show. The straps make a HUGE difference though.             Corset (Stays) 1780-1790, Scotland, National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne, CT38-1984

 

A Slightly Higher Waistline and Deeper Tabs: Another interesting note about stays from this 15 year time period is the location of the waistline: Prior to the 1770s (we’re talking 1700-1760s), the waistlines of stays resided either directly at the waist or -if you’re fancy- just below the natural waist. Many of the examples of late 1770s-1780s stays are slightly shorter in length and are meant to for the waistline to be right at OR ABOVE the waistline the closer to the 1780s and 90s you go.

ZZ

Here’s a great example of a mid-late 1780s pair of stays as the waistline of popular silhouettes begin to creep up. The tabs are still pretty long though, when they start to be                teeny tiny tabs, you know you’ve gotten into the 1790s!       Tan Cotton Stays, 1780s, Lot 77, Augusta Auctions

Deeply cut and long tabs also enable a smooth waistline- though the tabs innermost cut should sit around 1/2″-1″ below the waistline to ensure your stays won’t cut off circulation at the smallest part.

 

Interesting myths surrounding these styles:

pretty lady

She’s thinking, “Why on earth would moderns think that!?”                            Sketched Image, Source Unknown though attributed to The British Museum, I could not find any information!

Breastfeeding: There has been speculation from many, many people that the partial lacing is used for breast feeding or to have the option of lacing without aid from another person. I am not at all convinced of either of these speculations.

Lady and Children

Up and Over, my friends.                                                                        “A Lady and Children” Mezzotint, 1780, Attributed to Pine, The British Museum, 2010,7081.3005

From my own experience, breast feeding up and over the top edge of the stays is not unattainable (actually quite easy for me) and didn’t require partially undressing. There are also many depictions of mothers breastfeeding their children in this manner. According to other clothing historians, stay makers, and scholars I have spoken with on this subject it’s very hard to definitively say that this style is exclusively for breastfeeding as there is not an excessive amount of milk protein residue left in the stays in the original garments that would lead to that conclusion.

 

Ease of Lacing: The other “myth” I have encountered is that this partial lacing allows for one to lace themselves into the stays by themselves because the front is open.

NF.1914-0210x2

There is NO WAY that circumference (blue line) when laced closed at the back would fit over                                                                  your head and shoulders. No sir.                                                                     Stays, Last quarter of 18th century, Norske Folkemuseum, NF.1914-0210

This cannot be true. With partial front lacing, note where the front lacing ends- right at the waist and smallest measure of the garment- it is impossible to have the center back laced all the way closed and to pull the garment over your head to be able to lace “by yourself.”  Since a few examples don’t have much option for adjustability to begin with I find it hard to conclude that it was used for ease of dressing by oneself .There are a few methods to lacing yourself into a back-laced pair of stays but more on that later…

edited stays hands up

Ahhhh so comfy. This is my pair of 1780s Augusta Stays made from our pattern based off of all this (and more) research.                                                                                                                                 Photo by Leimomi Oakes of The Dreamstress blog             Pattern by Scroop Patterns and Virgil’s Fine Goods available here!

All in all, I really love the shape I have in the pairs of 1780s stays I have made. I’m a huge fan of partial boning because it’s lighter to wear, faster to make, and extremely comfortable. I also just love wearing 1780s fashions because of the extra froof and femininity mixed with the restrained characteristics of the period.

 

ScroopPatterns.com

   Here we all are in our new 1780s Augusta stays at Costume College 2019! We had so much playing fruit and chocolate sellers. Also, how                                      can you not love the 1780s?!!?!                                         Photo by Leimomi Oakes of The Dreamstress blog

If you want to check out more information regarding this topic, check out my links below!

 

*In the Patterns of Fashion 5 book, there is information on a lovely pair of stays that used paper as a reinforcement between silk layers.

Additional Information:

Extant 1770s-1780s Stays:

Winterthur 1952.0275, c. 1750-1780
NT 1349940, fustain, c. 1750-1800
A set of stays from the Marjorie Russell Clothing and Textile Museum attributed to the Billinghurst family, linen, c. 1760-1780
MoMu T12/123/O11, silk damask, Netherlands, 1770-1790
Augusta 8.4833.85.177, tan cotton lined with homespun linen, England, c. 1775-1785
BATMC I.27.866, linen and cotton, c. 1775-1799 (Site unsearchable, but pictures available here)
V&A T.909-1913, stays covered in silk damask, lined with linen, reinforced with whalebone, England, 1770-1790
Colonial Williamsburg 1986-45, beige cotton stays, England, c. 1780
Front view and back view, pink jean linen with blue silk, England, c. 1780-1790
Museum of London 49.91/1, brown cotton twill corset with front-tied shoulder straps and center-back lacing, c. 1780-1795
1998-162-50, linen plain weave partially boned stays, United States Provenance, late 18th century
Brown stays, late 18th century, Italian provenance
M969X.26, apricot color partially boned and corded stays, c. 1780-1790
NF.1914-0210, tan partially boned stays, late 18th century
GOS-Nr. AK001867, blue damask front and back lacing stays, c. 1785-1800
OK-13436, yellow back lacing stays, no tabs, c. 1740-1780
T.192-1929, red wool stays, England, c 1780s
T.910-1913, tan silk diaper stays made for doll or sample, England, c. 1770-1780
T.911-1913, buff linen stays without straps, front lacing, England, c. 1780

Period Images of 1770s-1780s Stays:

D,2.3757, Strange Stay Maker trade card, c. 1780-1790s
1874,0711.838, “L’Essai Du Corset”  Antoine Francois Dunnel, 1788
1868,0808.4540, “Frontispiece to Anstey’s election ball, 1776
1935,0522.1.108, “The Last Shift” Carington Bowles, 1790-1793
2010,7081.3029, “A Morning Frolic or The Transmutation of the Sexes”, John Collet, 1780
B1977.14.6315, “The Rustic Lover” Francis Wheatley, 1786
RP-P-2009-1157, “Tailleur costumier essayant un cor de la mode” Pierre Thomas la Clerc, 1778
S.1226-2009, “An Actress at her Toilet, or Miss Brazen just Breecht” by Thomas Collet, 1779
1871,1209.602, “Strawberries Scarlet Strawberries” by Francis Wheatley, 1795

Books that include Stays of this style:

Patterns of Fashion 5 – The School of Historical Dress
Costume in Detail 1730-1930 – Nancy Bradfield
Corsets: Historical Patterns & Techniques – Jill Salen
Corsets and Crinolines – Norah Waugh
Underwear: Fashion in Detail – Eleri Lynn

Sewing Patterns available:

Redthreaded
Scroop Patterns

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A 1770’s Silk Mantelet

27 Wednesday Feb 2019

Posted by guhnome in 18th Century, Books You Should Buy, Colonial Williamsburg, Costuming, Fashion, Frugal and Thrifty, Historical Sew Monthly 2019, History, Sewing Adventures, Winter

≈ Leave a comment

Or maybe a mantle? Honestly I’m not sure what makes them different from what I’ve seen ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ So, this was the first challenge of the year and was made in preparation for a “cold” outing in Colonial Williamsburg- the day after our scheduled Historic Costumer’s Winter Mini-Market in February. As a stash busting project that I was glad to bust-it-out quickly.

Did I drop something? Idk- I never know how to pose with my face…

The Challenge: January: Dressed to the 9’s

Material: Palest lavender lilac silk taffeta scrap (about 1 yardx60″w) from The Purple Edwardian dress a year ago and nearly a yard of white silk taffeta. Silk purchased from Silk Baron.

Pattern: Modified from the Lace Cloak (or Mantle) in Costume Closeup, by Linda Baumgarten, page 50.

Year: 1778-1779

Notions: Silk Thread, Silk ribbon, Pinking Chisel, ribbons

How historically accurate is it? I would say 95%. The garment is entirely hand stitched and trimmed in a manner close to fashion plates from 1778/1779 and”in style.” I decided not to line the Mantelet because Virginia is warm- so is silk- and also, I didn’t want to use any more precious silk from my stash.

Galerie des modes et costumes français 1778
Galerie des modes et costumes français 1778
Galerie des modes et costumes français 1778
Galerie des modes et costumes français 1778

Hours to complete: 10. The body of the garment itself took about 4 hours to complete, whereas the trimming took at least 6 hours. Always allot double time for trimming. ALWAYS.

This took FOREVER to do! UGH.
This took FOREVER to do! UGH.
The sad and lonely mantle, just waiting for its trimmings.
The sad and lonely mantle, just waiting for its trimmings.
The sad and lonely mantle, just waiting for its trimmings.
The sad and lonely mantle, just waiting for its trimmings.
This took FOREVER to do! UGH.
This took FOREVER to do! UGH.

 

First worn: Colonial Williamsburg for a promenade down DoG street- More pics can be viewed through others’ instagram accounts. I was abysmal at taking photos that day- sorry, everyone.

Total cost: $30ish for a large scrap of lavender silk and the one yard of fabric for the trim

What would I do differently? This was a hasty project (I absolutely *thought* I needed something for Virginia- spoiler alert– I did not need it, but wore it anyway GOSH DARNIT) so… I didn’t completely think through the functionality of the hood and made it too shallow to be useful. It is a purely decorative hood- and that fact makes me sad.

Takeaway: This was a really fun project to try and also to make-do with the stash remnants. For wear, I was surprised at how warm it was with no lining. It did try to choke me a lot, but I’m not sure how to keep a cloak- like garment from doing that, aside from the cross cross tie technique. I did feel extra spiffy in this Mantelet, even though it completely covered the great fit of my new wool dress. I definitely felt “Dressed To The 9’s” with my extra silk!

I also finally got to debut the Giant Calash bonnet from 6? years ago! Super fun and weird way to spend the day.

 

 

 

 

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I’m in a BOOK!!!

08 Friday Apr 2011

Posted by guhnome in Books You Should Buy, Crochet, Misc, Star Wars

≈ 5 Comments

Hello friends, I wanted to announce that I have been blurbed about in an official Star Wars Book!!

OOOOOOOOooooooooooooooo!!!!

 In Feb 2010, I was interviewed via email, by Bonnie Burton, to be featured on the Official Star Wars blog. I had been checking that blog every day for 9 months and was somewhat disappointed that I hadn’t seen anything on there yet. Then I got the email that perked up my spirits… She had chosen to put me in her newest book, The Star Wars Craft Book! It came in today…..and here I am!

AAAHHHHH!!!!!!

If any of you get a hold of the book, I’m on page 102 and am featured for my General Grievous. As a Star Wars fanatic, I can’t tell you how honored/excited/awesome it feels just to have that little blurb in there 🙂
Aside from me, there’s some awesome crafts that I think I may do in the near future. My faves are the Cantina Band spoons and Ewok Hat. AHHH, I want to make them noowwwww!!!! I was like a nerd at Comic-Con. ( BTW, I will attend in the near future). Other features include blurbs about Sammi Resendes, Kayla Kromer, and Amanda Jean Camarillo. All of which have made some pretty awesome things. 

All in all, the book is a great book for adults AND kids, I highly suggest you purchase it.

P.S.
Speaking of Star Wars, I have a new shirt to show off:

DAWWWW.

A surprise gift from my friend Travis of Debugging-Life It has become one of my favorite shirts of all times. Thanks man!

Phew, What a day… What. A. Day. 😀

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Christmas 2010!!!!

27 Monday Dec 2010

Posted by guhnome in Books You Should Buy, Costuming, Sewing Adventures, Winter

≈ 1 Comment

I hope you all had a Merry Christmas equipped with all the festivities, family and fun. I had a very blessed time with my family and I got a lot of awesome things this Christmas that I’d like to show you all 🙂

BOOKS
The past couple of years, I have been receiving books for the majority of my presents. I have an Amazon Wishlist and from it I received:

The Seventeenth and Eighteenth-Century Fashion in Detail by Susan North
and 
The Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail by Lucy Johnston

Both these books are from the Victoria and Albert Fashion Museum collection and are really fascinating. I love being able to see individual stitches, minor flaws (that make me feel better about my work), and simply the wonderful detailed photographs/descriptions of the garments. The only thing to make them better would be to have photos of the whole garment instead of really up close ones. The book is great though. I’m soooo glad I have them now!

The Cut of Men’s Clothes: 1600-1900
and
Corsets and Crinolines both by Norah Waugh 
These books are just wonderful. I got a used/older version of the Cut of Men’s Clothes and a new version of Corsets and Crinolines but I couldn’t be happier. These are definitely must-haves.
After a Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore, and Wear Vintage Styles 
and
The Edwardian Modiste: 85 Authentic Patterns with Instructions, Fashion Plates and Period Sewing Techniques
both by Francis Grimble
 I knew these would be great the moment I saw them. Last year I was happy to get Francis’ book: Reconstruction Era Fashions and to say the least, It’s fantastic. After a Fashion is chock full of very useful information for me since I’m quite a novice at just about everything. I was looking at some of the chapters in it just thinking “Oh, that makes sense now!” and the like. Very good book. The Edwardian Modiste is also good. I find it funny that each fashion plate has a pasted face on it. 


Heirloom Embroidery by Jan Constantine

This was a surprise book my mom happened to find. I keep telling her that I want to start embroidery so she got me a book on it 🙂 I love my mommy.

Spencerian Penmanship by Platt Rogers Spencer

Another endeavor I would like to start on is my handwriting. I would like to write well and beautifully. I think of all my books I got, this present got the biggest reaction from me. This is something I’m dying to start on.


OTHER THAN BOOKS
Apart from all the awesome books I got the following things:

Young Victoria
This movie is superb. I seriously love it.
Return to Cranford 
How can you go wrong with a period miniseries? You can’t. Especially if it’s from the BBC. My brother and I bought Cranford (and other series) 
The whole show is just so darn adorable. Judi Dench plays a really caring/naive character, which is soooo refreshing compared to her role as M from 007, which is pretty rigid. The series is definitely one worth watching.
Pennywhistles!
I recently played an original arrangement of O Come, O Come Emmanuel at my church a few weeks ago. I decided I wanted more of them (they’re fixed key instruments) so I got 4 new ones in keys other than D so now I can play WHATEVER I WANT 😀
I also got a Yarn Carrier, Truffles, a 9-headed Dragon Incense Burner, a SnapFish photo album of my boyfriend and I, a LIGHTSABER UMBRELLA, some clothes, a springform pan, and some moneys. It was a really blessed Christmas to say the least. I received way more than I was ever expecting. OH YEAH!!! And I got a necklace that belonged to my Great-Grandmother.
Isn’t it pretty?
I hope you all had a wonderful Christmas!!!!
 

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*Sigh*

28 Tuesday Sep 2010

Posted by guhnome in Books You Should Buy, College Life, Goats

≈ Leave a comment

This weekend I was hoping to do some fun stuff. I.E. sewing, crochet, a few more recordings etc. but was overcome with homework from dawn til dusk all weekend long. My homework consisted of reading the story of the life of Mary Jemison, practicing piano, writing an essay, blah blah blah blah blah. Complete with more blah, blah and blah.

Though my homework was exhausting, I felt I should say a bit about The Narrative of the Life of Mary Jemison. I really enjoyed it. The book is a first person account of a woman of Irish heritage and her life as an adopted Seneca woman. Unlike many captivity narratives, she portrays the Native Americans as a lovely people and culture rather than a barbaric cult of savages. It was a long read for me was very good and enlightening, despite the time it took from my other interests. I do encourage those who have not read it to do so if they get a chance. I read the latest edition, with an introduction by June Namais, which also helps keep in perspective what is elaborated upon and what is from Jemison herself. I really do encourage you to read it… and lucky for you it’s not an assignment

And now, I’ll give you some cuteness to counteract the lame of my post
Joel!!!

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