In my previous post, I talked a little about the inspirations that went in to the Figured Silk Jack and you’ve seen pictures of the thing here and there on me. But no construction photos. Here are some recently finished pics of the jacket with a few notes on it’s construction.
I draped my jacket on a form I padded out and added stays to. It’s much easier to do it that way, in my opinion, and you’ll have less fidgeting later. So I draped the entire bodice (out of the lining) on my stay’d form.
After, I cut the pieces that were “exact” copies of silk and gave plenty extra for the “en fourreau” style back. Catherine at Koshka the Cat has a great tutorial on how to make a gown in this style. I did my folding/pleating on the separate pieces then sewed the center back seam using the crazy whipped-lining-stitch method, thus illustrated by Abby at Stay-ing Alive.
The sleeves were set by my mother the 18th century way, I can’t remember who did the tutorial–probably over at Koshka— but it works out really nicely.
There aren’t really many things to mention, other than the fabric definitely had it’s own mind. It did not want to cooperate on anything but the grain. Despite, it turned out to be a beautiful jacket and in natural light it’s a beautiful bright blue. Check out the up-close pics, too!