What to expect with the Augusta Stays Pattern

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IT HAS LAUNCHED! This new and collaborative work is now available for download at scrooppatterns.com

Check out the video to learn all about what it’s all about or read a bit about it over on Leimomi’s blog, TheDreamstress.com!

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Hellooooooooo Youtube!

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I’m very excited to announce that I’ve ventured into the crazy world of YOUTUBE! I know my posting hasn’t ever been on the regular, but part of that was bound up in my frustration with the fact that pictures and text only show a smallll part of the learning process; whereas I feel videos help immensely.

So, after about 5 years of procrastination, I am very glad to say that I’m finally in a great place mentally, physically and time-commitment wise to be able to bring a different level of content to the world of making!

So, what will this new “Lady of the Wilderness” channel be about? You might ask. The purpose of the channel originally was to create an avenue for easier to follow tutorials for those who are visual, rather than textual, learners. BUT now that I’ve gotten a plan, the goals are as follows:

1) Provide helpful tutorials for making; sewing, millinery, fitting, patterning, mixed media, etc.

2) Provide helpful tips and resources for keeping a person healthy (mentally, physically, productively) while doing a making-centric hobby or business.

3) Do interviews with other makers!

4) Real talk. Because there are lots of topics out there within the costuming, cosplay and historical costuming communities that just need to be talked about!

I sincerely hope you all will visit my youtube channel and like, subscribe, share, etc. We have some really super exciting things coming up and I’d love for you to come along for the ride 🙂

Happy Making!

A 1770’s Silk Mantelet

Or maybe a mantle? Honestly I’m not sure what makes them different from what I’ve seen ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ So, this was the first challenge of the year and was made in preparation for a “cold” outing in Colonial Williamsburg- the day after our scheduled Historic Costumer’s Winter Mini-Market in February. As a stash busting project that I was glad to bust-it-out quickly.

Did I drop something? Idk- I never know how to pose with my face…

The Challenge: January: Dressed to the 9’s

Material: Palest lavender lilac silk taffeta scrap (about 1 yardx60″w) from The Purple Edwardian dress a year ago and nearly a yard of white silk taffeta. Silk purchased from Silk Baron.

Pattern: Modified from the Lace Cloak (or Mantle) in Costume Closeup, by Linda Baumgarten, page 50.

Year: 1778-1779

Notions: Silk Thread, Silk ribbon, Pinking Chisel, ribbons

How historically accurate is it? I would say 95%. The garment is entirely hand stitched and trimmed in a manner close to fashion plates from 1778/1779 and”in style.” I decided not to line the Mantelet because Virginia is warm- so is silk- and also, I didn’t want to use any more precious silk from my stash.

Hours to complete: 10. The body of the garment itself took about 4 hours to complete, whereas the trimming took at least 6 hours. Always allot double time for trimming. ALWAYS.

 

First worn: Colonial Williamsburg for a promenade down DoG street- More pics can be viewed through others’ instagram accounts. I was abysmal at taking photos that day- sorry, everyone.

Total cost: $30ish for a large scrap of lavender silk and the one yard of fabric for the trim

What would I do differently? This was a hasty project (I absolutely *thought* I needed something for Virginia- spoiler alert– I did not need it, but wore it anyway GOSH DARNIT) so… I didn’t completely think through the functionality of the hood and made it too shallow to be useful. It is a purely decorative hood- and that fact makes me sad.

Takeaway: This was a really fun project to try and also to make-do with the stash remnants. For wear, I was surprised at how warm it was with no lining. It did try to choke me a lot, but I’m not sure how to keep a cloak- like garment from doing that, aside from the cross cross tie technique. I did feel extra spiffy in this Mantelet, even though it completely covered the great fit of my new wool dress. I definitely felt “Dressed To The 9’s” with my extra silk!

I also finally got to debut the Giant Calash bonnet from 6? years ago! Super fun and weird way to spend the day.

 

 

 

 

2019 Projects Outlook

Alrighty, here we are; into another new year- A MONTH AND A HALF INTO ANOTHER ONE. It’s so bright and shiny and entices one to make new goals for themselves. These goals don’t always stick (as you saw from my last post) but honestly, it’s goals like these that keep me going. Also, I’m a huge “list person”- so we might as well document all this and see how we do:

Over-arching Goals
Finish “Must Do List”
Focus on Stash Busting
Go to Costume College
Host fun events in Ohio
Do more Historical Sew Monthly Challenges.

Let’s look at the year:

January

**HSF CHALLENGE: “Dressed to the 9’s”
For this I’m entering in my new Silk Mantle: based on sketches and fashion prints from 1778 & 1779
**Prepare for Mini Market
**Black Wool 1770s Gown
EVENTs: JASNA Dayton Twelfthnight Ball – Jan 12 Event postponed to March!

February

**HSF CHALLENGE: Linen- I may make a new pair of stays out of linen for this one
**Orange Silk Pet en L’air– At least get a start on it!
**Linen Gardening Smock- Modern sewing, but I really need one, so I’ll do it on my birthday!

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I’m so excited about this…

EVENTS: Mini Market – Feb 2

March

**HSF CHALLENGE: Sewing Kit– I really need an 18th century “huswife” or sewing kit in general so I might put that together for myself
**Finish Orange Silk Pet en l’Air
**18th Century Toddler Stays

EVENTS:
Postponed JASNA Dayton Twelfth Night Ball, March 9
18th Century Fancy Dinner- March 30 (Tickets on sale until 2/20!!!! GET THEM SOON!)

April:

**HSF CHALLENGE: “Upping Your Game”-
For this challenge I think I’m going to start my venture into Edwardian clothing- It’ll probably have something to do with lace insertion. HOWEVER- this may change
edwardian
**Finish Trim on Silk Ikat Saque Back Gown

May:

**HSF CHALLENGE: Florals
I plan to tambour embroider/reproduce a version of a sleeveless spencer [allegedly] belonging to Josephine Bonaparte!
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**White and Gold 1802 Dress
**Finish Green Corded Bonnet

June

**HSF CHALLENGE: Favorite Technique
This is going to be a hard one to decide on… totally not sure yet
**Navy Charmeuse 1920’s Dress Repro from The Southeast Ohio History Center Collections

July

**HSF CHALLENGE: Unexpected
I desperately want to make an 1880’s Maternity Corset

Kelvington Grove

Maternity and Nursing Corset from Kelvington Grove

EVENTS:
Jane Austen Festival- July 12-14 (I’ll be teaching classes again! Yay!)
Costume College- July 25-29

August

**HSF CHALLENGE: Out of a Portrait
There are a LOT to choose from. Oy. I might do something for Anne, like an Edwardian children’s dress? I don’t know. This one is almost too broad for me-HA!
**Edwardian Ensemble for September Luncheon

September

**HSF CHALLENGE: Everyday
18th Century Quilted Petticoat- I didn’t get around to this one this year but I’d really like to get working on it!
**18th Century Kid’s Market Bonnet
EVENTS:
Fair at New Boston- Labor Day Weekend
Edwardian Croquet Luncheon (More Details to come!

October

**HSF CHALLENGE: Details- another not sure yet- I might focus my energies on the little details of 1830’s Children’s clothes
**1830’s Men’s Coat

EVENTS:
Schoenbrunn Village Market Fair- Date TBD
Locust Grove 18th Century Market Fair- October 26-27

November
**HSF CHALLENGE: Above the Belt
I’ll likely enter an 1830’s Bonnet or wired cap in preparation for the Dicken’s Village!
**1836 Gown

December

**HSF CHALLENGE: On a Shoestring
For this one I might do an up-cycle project that’s been languishing in my rip-apart box. Not sure what it’ll be though.
**Christmas Presents CRAM
EVENTS: 
Ohio History Connection Dickens Village

 

Are there any events I should know about and add to my list? It seems a little bare to me…

2018 “In Review”

Geesh! This year has proven to me that I’m not in control of time (or anything for that matter) in any way. I can’t believe the year is almost over… there were so many things that I had intended/scheduled to make but absolutely did not. I don’t know about anyone else, but this year kicked my butt. In terms of “upping my game”- in terms of quality events- in terms of meeting new people- in terms of turning my life upside down. It was a lot to cram in there.

Surprisingly, I’m alive. *CHECK*

This year, I had made a “resolution” to follow the “Must Do List” and to keep up with the Historical Sew Monthly. That went well for about 4 months. Then I tanked HARD. Moving really disrupted everything. I mean, my husband’s job was terminated at the beginning of January, so it’s been an entire year of upheaval- now that I look back on it. We’re finally getting into a “groove” in our new little town and I’m so excited to have some stability. I have an awesome friend who watches Anne once a week so I can get a solid day’s work in and the commission waitlist is getting smaller for Virgil’s Fine Goods. I know that once I get to where I feel I have a handle on things it’ll all go topsy-turvy but for now I’ll enjoy the little bit of routine we’ve got goin’ on.

Anyway, back to this year…. How did I do? On a scale of 1-10 (10 being best) I would say I fall around 4 or 5. I kept up with work stuff but personal projects didn’t go as planned in any way… If I were being graded at school, I would qualify it all as a D, but I’m getting close to 30 so I don’t even know why I would think in terms of that….

I still haven’t made my birthday apron yet- adlkfjahkdljahfdh- but I guess that’s the trade-off when I want to garden, do canning and craftting while having a kid under 2. It’s going to happen next year though. IT MUST.

The Must-Do List (2017) Progress

Finish Yellow 19th Century Ball Gown Now I need to blog about it
Add more trim to Green Check 19th Century Gown
Finish Regency Stays- Busk Pocket, add real straps
Add Buttons to Black Regency Gown
Fasten Straps to Regency Petticoat
Re-Make Wool 18th Century Petticoat
Trim White 18th Century Petticoat
Trim Pierrot Jacket– Now I need to blog about it
Hem Ian’s 19th Century Shirt

Wellllllll that’s not great. BUT I did make some fun things this year:

Finished Personal Projects:

(a lot of these will get their own blog post soon, I just have such a hard time getting nice photos to use!)

The 1908 Purple Dress
1908 Corset
1810 Yellow Silk Evening Gown
1760s-1770s Small Hoop
1760s-1770s Chine Saque Gown
Anne’s 18th century kit (cloak, mitts, gown, cap)
Anne’s 19th century dresses (3 dresses and corded cap)
1800-1805 White Ikat Crossover Gown
1787 Silk Cap
1810 Trimmed Straw Bonnet
1919 Christmas Dress for Anne
Late-1770s Linen Dress for Felicity

Unfinished Personal Projects (These will be added to next year’s “Must-Do” List)

1805 French Blue Bonnet- I just need to hem the ties!
1800 Green Corded Bonnet Repro- Add brim and trim
Felicity’s Rose Garden Dress Redo

All in all it was an alright year for historical clothing but next year is gonna be wayyyyyy better!