Or maybe a mantle? Honestly I’m not sure what makes them different from what I’ve seen ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ So, this was the first challenge of the year and was made in preparation for a “cold” outing in Colonial Williamsburg- the day after our scheduled Historic Costumer’s Winter Mini-Market in February. As a stash busting project that I was glad to bust-it-out quickly.
The Challenge: January: Dressed to the 9’s
Pattern: Modified from the Lace Cloak (or Mantle) in Costume Closeup, by Linda Baumgarten, page 50.
Notions: Silk Thread, Silk ribbon, Pinking Chisel, ribbons
How historically accurate is it? I would say 95%. The garment is entirely hand stitched and trimmed in a manner close to fashion plates from 1778/1779 and”in style.” I decided not to line the Mantelet because Virginia is warm- so is silk- and also, I didn’t want to use any more precious silk from my stash.
Hours to complete: 10. The body of the garment itself took about 4 hours to complete, whereas the trimming took at least 6 hours. Always allot double time for trimming. ALWAYS.
Total cost: $30ish for a large scrap of lavender silk and the one yard of fabric for the trim
What would I do differently? This was a hasty project (I absolutely *thought* I needed something for Virginia- spoiler alert– I did not need it, but wore it anyway GOSH DARNIT) so… I didn’t completely think through the functionality of the hood and made it too shallow to be useful. It is a purely decorative hood- and that fact makes me sad.
Takeaway: This was a really fun project to try and also to make-do with the stash remnants. For wear, I was surprised at how warm it was with no lining. It did try to choke me a lot, but I’m not sure how to keep a cloak- like garment from doing that, aside from the cross cross tie technique. I did feel extra spiffy in this Mantelet, even though it completely covered the great fit of my new wool dress. I definitely felt “Dressed To The 9’s” with my extra silk!
I also finally got to debut the Giant Calash bonnet from 6? years ago! Super fun and weird way to spend the day.
Geesh! This year has proven to me that I’m not in control of time (or anything for that matter) in any way. I can’t believe the year is almost over… there were so many things that I had intended/scheduled to make but absolutely did not. I don’t know about anyone else, but this year kicked my butt. In terms of “upping my game”- in terms of quality events- in terms of meeting new people- in terms of turning my life upside down. It was a lot to cram in there.
Surprisingly, I’m alive. *CHECK*
This year, I had made a “resolution” to follow the “Must Do List” and to keep up with the Historical Sew Monthly. That went well for about 4 months. Then I tanked HARD. Moving really disrupted everything. I mean, my husband’s job was terminated at the beginning of January, so it’s been an entire year of upheaval- now that I look back on it. We’re finally getting into a “groove” in our new little town and I’m so excited to have some stability. I have an awesome friend who watches Anne once a week so I can get a solid day’s work in and the commission waitlist is getting smaller for Virgil’s Fine Goods. I know that once I get to where I feel I have a handle on things it’ll all go topsy-turvy but for now I’ll enjoy the little bit of routine we’ve got goin’ on.
Anyway, back to this year…. How did I do? On a scale of 1-10 (10 being best) I would say I fall around 4 or 5. I kept up with work stuff but personal projects didn’t go as planned in any way… If I were being graded at school, I would qualify it all as a D, but I’m getting close to 30 so I don’t even know why I would think in terms of that….
I still haven’t made my birthday apron yet- adlkfjahkdljahfdh- but I guess that’s the trade-off when I want to garden, do canning and craftting while having a kid under 2. It’s going to happen next year though. IT MUST.
The Must-Do List (2017) Progress
Finish Yellow 19th Century Ball Gown– Now I need to blog about it
Add more trim to Green Check 19th Century Gown
Finish Regency Stays- Busk Pocket, add real straps
Add Buttons to Black Regency Gown
Fasten Straps to Regency Petticoat
Re-Make Wool 18th Century Petticoat
Trim White 18th Century Petticoat–
Trim Pierrot Jacket– Now I need to blog about it
Hem Ian’s 19th Century Shirt
Wellllllll that’s not great. BUT I did make some fun things this year:
Finished Personal Projects:
(a lot of these will get their own blog post soon, I just have such a hard time getting nice photos to use!)
The 1908 Purple Dress
1810 Yellow Silk Evening Gown
1760s-1770s Small Hoop
1760s-1770s Chine Saque Gown
Anne’s 18th century kit (cloak, mitts, gown, cap)
Anne’s 19th century dresses (3 dresses and corded cap)
1800-1805 White Ikat Crossover Gown
1787 Silk Cap
1810 Trimmed Straw Bonnet
1919 Christmas Dress for Anne
Late-1770s Linen Dress for Felicity
Unfinished Personal Projects (These will be added to next year’s “Must-Do” List)
1805 French Blue Bonnet- I just need to hem the ties!
1800 Green Corded Bonnet Repro- Add brim and trim
Felicity’s Rose Garden Dress Redo
All in all it was an alright year for historical clothing but next year is gonna be wayyyyyy better!
YAY!!! A two-fer! This project has been on my list for a while now. I’m glad to have finally ticked it off the list AND have it qualify for the Historical Sew Monthly! Let’s revisit the list again, shall we?
The Must-Do List of 2018
Finish Yellow 19th Century Ball Gown–
Add more trim to Green Check 19th Century Gown- Will post about this sometime soon!
Finish Regency Stays- Busk Pocket, add real straps
Add Buttons to Black Regency Gown- Literally just the buttons.
Fasten Straps to Regency Petticoat- I have to re-find the scraps for that one…
Re-Make Wool 18th Century Petticoat- Complete re-do
Trim White 18th Century Petticoat- I need a flounce to lengthen it !
Trim Pierrot Jacket- Just needs the ruffle on the hem
Hem Ian’s 19th Century Shirt
Hm, well… I was hoping to get more done in the first month, but I suppose those two things plus mom’s purple dress is actually a lot of stuff to do in a month’s time.
Anyway, back to this project: I made this white silk petticoat in preparation for a Burnley and Trowbridge workshop I attended in 2013. I decided to hem it at “walking length” but it looked goofy-as-all-get-out in pictures. I’ve worn it a few times since then and have never been happy with it. The last time I wore it (probably in 2015) I decided I wouldn’t wear it again until I lengthened it with a flounce…. It’s been a while.
And full disclosure… I finished it yesterday… So technically it’s the January challenge but I was 5 days late! Sorry.
The Challenge: January: Mend, Reshape, Refashion.
Material: White silk taffeta from B&T
Pattern: None? Just a ruffle addition 1.5x fullness
Notions: Silk Thread, Pinking Chisel
How historically accurate is it? I would say 95%. The entire petticoat is handstitched and the pinked edge of the ruffle is done with an antique pinking chisel then a small ruching channel gathered and attached with running stitch. I’m sure there’s probably something I did non-HA but I don’t know what it is!
Hours to complete: For the ruffle addition, it took me approximately 5 hours to finish- unfortunately that was over 4 evenings because I have a baby and babies make things harder to accomplish in quick time.
First worn: For these pictures!
Total cost: $30 for the 2 yards of fabric it took for the ruffle.
Takeaway: As I was putting the lovely ruffle on, I decided I also want to redo the pleating and waistband because it’s BAAAAAAAAAAAAD. It’s one of those things that you look back on and think… WTF PAST ME!? Eventually I’ll get to that. I have to bleach some linen tape first…. Onto the “Must-Do List” it goes, again!
My 2017 “Resolution” was to refrain from starting any new projects until I finished my UFO’s- aka THE MUST DO LIST. I did well on my quest, though I didn’t post much about it on here. I put a lot on instagram, but with a baby and tending my etsy shop I found it hard to find time to write! So here’s one big post with a run-down of my [semi] successful venture.
My must-do list had a lot of projects that were *almost* finished or ones that NEEDED to be made, based on what event was coming up. These are its successes:
Fix Blue Linen 18th Century Petti: This lovely p’cote was made and given to me by the Fat-Reenactress a few years ago before I had a full 18th century kit. I had worn it to death and the waistband started to ravel so it needed some re-vamping. SUCCESS!
Mend 18th Century Chintz Bedgown: Another item that received a LOT Of love over the years. I am notorious for ripping out the right bottom armscye of almost everything I have. As a result, this bedgown had been washed numerous times with the hole in it. I added a cute little patch to it which doubles as a gusset and I now have more room to move! Unfortunately, my post-baby body is a little too big for it anymore, so a new bedgown is on the list for 2018. Overall, SUCCESS!!
TurkeyRed Early 19th Century Shortgown: A while back I made an adorable lower-class ensemble of turkey-red fabric for my 19thcentury/regency adventures. The fit was great, it was ridiculously sweet, and very adjustable!…. but I made it with lined, long sleeves. -Not great for wearing year-round- I had a little bit of fabric left over from the project, so I pieced together a matching 3/4 length sleeve version. I ended up wearing this while pregnant at the Kalamazoo History Show and on Friday at the Jane Austen Festival (shortly after I had the baby). It’s very comfortable and cute, to boot! SUCCESS!!!
Patrick’s 19th Century Shirt: Sooooooo, a lonnnnnng lonnnnnng time ago I had told Patrick that I would make him a shirt since I was starting to prototype men’s shirts for the Virgil’s store. That project got pushed back again. And again. And again. I can’t tell you how many times that project was literally on my worktable and then I’d get an order, thinking “I’ll do that RIGHT after this order.” Hhahahahahahahahahahaha. Can you guess what happened? Anyways, I just said “screw all that” one week and finished that puppy. FINALLY SUCCESS!!!!
Binding Ian’s 19th Century Top Hat: I’m a novice at pulling hats, but when I initially pulled Ian’s top hat last year, I was really proud of myself. I didn’t have time to bind it when it needed to be worn. I finally finished it! YAY! Not the prettiest, but I’m not at all practiced. I plan to take a class on it so I can get better and maybe even carry them in my shop! Overall, SUCCESS!!!!
Anne’s 18th Century Stays: I did up this project while the in-laws were in town on New Years day. Easy peasy, kept me busy, and they ended up fitting when Anne was 4 months old! Full Post Here. SUCCESS!!!!!!
18th Century Gestational Stays: I was fortunate enough to go to the Textile Conference in Colonial Williamsburg last year and had to make SOMETHING that would enable me to wear my 18th century stuff. Luckily, this were a quick whip (the binding was a different story) and turned out pretty well. Full post here. I’ll be sure to post about fit sometime soon- I promise! SUCCESS!!!!!!!
Alter Ian’s 19th Century Breeches: Had to move the buttons from one side to the other. and lengthen the strap. SUCCESS!!!!!!!
Finish the Paintings: Blog Posts about these paintings are here. But, this was a collaborative project started well over 2 years ago and I kept procrastinating. Well, they’re done now. SO. DONE. We framed them for Christmas and so happy about it! WE plan to offer prints of these to sell- stay tuned for the official announcement! SUCCESS!!!!!!!
Basic Silk Kerchief: Found an amazingly light vintage silk in exactly a 36×36″ square. I had hemmed one side, and then tucked it away somewhere. Fast forward to 5 months later when I used it as a travel project! YAY! It’s fantastic for keeping you warm without added bulk. Hooray! SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!
These are the fails of my list- the items I never got around to, to my shame!
Finish Yellow 19th Century Ball Gown: Didn’t do.
Add more trim to Green Check 19th Century Gown: Nope!
Finish Regency Stays: Hahaha
Add Buttons to Black Regency Gown: Nada.
Fasten Straps to Regency Petticoat: Still safety pinned.
Re-Make Wool 18th Century Petticoat: Hasn’t even been unfolded!
Other Items, not on the list, were made as well. Here’s a few of them!
Hope you all had a Happy New Year and can’t wait to see what next year holds!